With an open heart and mind, Jor-el Espina looks forward to a milestone in May 2025, celebrating two decades as a stalwart of contemporary Philippine fashion.
Casa Buenas in Newport World Resorts was buzzing with excitement for the much anticipated preview of “Adaptation-20 Years Of Design” by Jor-el Espina. It was a warm gathering of friends from the media and fashion industry, as joyful conversations filled the air.
A gastronomic welcome
Guests were treated to a wonderful lunch featuring Filipino-Spanish cuisine that Casa Buenas is well known for.
The menu included Okoy de Pulpo, Filipino street food served with octopus and squid ink sofrito; Coconut Pork Sinigang (not in photo), simmered pork belly in luscious coconut tamarind and taro broth; Pancit Luglug with octopus, shrimps, fried egg, and crab essence; Caldereta, a house favorite with melted manchego cheese; Tofu Mushroom Sisig with sous vide cage-free egg and crispy rice paper; Oven Roasted Pompano with escabeche sauce; and Paella Seafood (not in photo). Dessert was Turon, bananas wrapped in perfectly crisp spring rolls topped with caramel sauce.
A preview of Filipino Art-Deco inspired design
After lunch, the preview opened, showcasing select pieces for ArteFino Festival 2024, officially launching the series of pocket celebrations drumming up to the 20th anniversary in May 2025.
Espina elaborates, “These are ready-to-wear pieces that will be showcased at this year’s ArteFino Festival. Some of the art-deco design elements in this collection will be present in the main show for the 20th anniversary next year. In that respect, you can consider this as a prelude. I chose art deco as the theme because it also happens that next year will be the 100th year of the Art Deco Movement.”
Originally from Iloilo, Espina’s two-decade journey has been blessed with significant moments and achievements. He thought it would be appropriate to kick off the celebrations with this preview for the 2024 ArteFino Festival, the event being relevant and meaningful to the designer.
He emphasized, “The artisan movement opened countless doors for me–in retail, in building a brand, creating a business, and being globally competitive.”
READ ALSO: LA Asks Filipino Furniture Designers: What Inspires Your Design Process?
Looking back: The Bomberong debuts in ArteFino
It’s hard to believe that Espina’s signature Bomberong jackets were once unappreciated. The contemporary designer revealed, “I started developing the Bomberong jacket as early as 2013. Back in Iloilo, these jackets just hung on the racks. No one seemed to mind or appreciate them.” But in 2017, he joined ArteFino through a fellow designer’s invitation, and the rest, as they say, is history. It was during the artisanal trade fair that he first debuted the Bomberong jackets, which would establish him as a contemporary designer with distinct Philippine sensibilities. An effortless fusion of modern design and Filipino artistry, the bomber jacket-Barong Tagalog hybrid became a proudly Filipino style staple for Manila’s most discerning.
Espina shares, “It was so inspiring to know that people were responding to what I was doing.” He joined ArteFino again in 2018, with his own booth under the Jor-el Espina brand.
Championing Filipino Weaves
As early as the early 2000s, Espina was already championing Filipino weaves. He was incorporating local weaves such as hablon, piña, and abaca into his pieces, even before the love local movement. He explained, “Being based in Iloilo, I was fortunate to have access to these beautiful fabrics and talented artisans. I advocated the use of local fabrics early in my career, even if at that time (in 2004) it was not very popular. I would even sometimes ask artisans to create weaves for me and incorporate them into my designs.”
Over the last two decades, Espina has built an archive of Philippine fabrics. It is a wise strategy that has paid off. By maintaining an inventory of fine Filipino fabrics, he is able to keep the quality of his ready-to-wear pieces.
He adds, “I hoard local fabrics because when I come across a weave that is beautiful and well-made I just know that it will find its way to my creations. For this new collection, I will feature a jusi multicolored striped fabric which I’ve had for years. I don’t need to compromise just because a certain fabric is no longer available.”
Adapting to the world of retail
While he began by creating bespoke pieces for clients in Iloilo, Espina’s immersion in the ArteFino market taught him to adapt and venture into the retail world.
He says, “After joining ArteFino for the first time, I realized that there is a market for discerning individuals who want to wear something special to events. However, they are not keen about waiting. I began to explore how I could develop a retail brand that’s more mindful and anchored to the values of creating beautiful things that last.”
This propelled him to revisit his past works and reimagine how they would translate as ready-to-wear garments. Before working on a new collection, he would often ask how he can adapt archival designs to more current ones.
On his ready-to-wear collections, Espina shares, “I start by creating separates before putting together a look. These are pieces that will move from the racks on their own or as part of a complete look. With a keen understanding of his market’s buying psychology, Espina sees his clients as one of his most early fashion influences. This approach informs his strategy as a fashion retail brand. He says, “As a designer, I took it upon myself to engage in a collaborative exchange with my clients. Apart from creating beautiful things, you also become a way for clients to realize their vision.”
Continuous adaptation throughout 20 years and beyond
Although experience and continuous learning have shaped Espina into the celebrated designer he is today, he still walks into his shop each day with the same level of excitement and enthusiasm that fueled him almost 20 years ago.
Even after nearly 20 years, perhaps it is Espina’s love of learning that fuels his passion, excitement and enthusiasm for his craft. He shares, “I still feel like I’m new to this business and that there is so much that I still need to do. So much to create and discover.”
Espina hints, “For my ArteFino collection and even for the show that will be unveiled next year, you will see art-deco elements that are interpreted in a distinctly Filipino manner.” Design details that are distinct to the Jor-el Espina brand were revisited with regard for the sensibilities of the times. These include signature drapes, embroideries, rich color tones, silhouettes, and inlays. “I wanted to show a modern application of these very same elements. Adaptation for me is an application and interpretation of different eras in my career. It is also an exercise in venturing into the limitless realm of creativity with an open heart and mind.”
Photos courtesy of Jor-el Espina.
Food photos by the author.
