Designer Carl Jan Cruz recently unveiled his 2023 collection “International Interbarangay” through a multimedia collaboration with photographer Renzo Navarro, music producer Crwn, and film director Judd Figuerres.
Acclaimed fashion designer Carl Jan Cruz has returned to collection-making, having released his latest series of works in Silverlens gallery. Entitled International Interbarangay, the 24-look collection explores “Filipino-ness” across generations through heritage-inspired garments. It also serves as an amalgamation of his eponymous design house’s questions, found answers, and desires over the past decade.
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Distinguished Design
Cruz has established himself as an impeccable talent both in the local and international fashion scene. A graduate of the London College of Fashion with a degree in BA Fashion Design Technology: Menswear and Foundation, the designer established his design house in 2015 and has since gathered a strong following.
Over the years, he has showcased his seasonal collections bi-annually in Paris, held retail pop-ups in New York and London, and gained international stockists Maryam Nassir Zadeh (New York), 100% Silk Shop (Toronto), and Esmeralda Service Department (Tokyo). His brand also became the very first local label available in UNIVERS, the Philippines’ leading premium multi-brand retailer in 2022.
His studio spent Q1 and Q2 on hiatus, focusing on research, product development, and company training. During this pivotal time, the brand opened its first CARL JAN CRUZ Manila Store in Taguig. It also released three main ready-to-wear ranges, composed of PIQUES (Pique Collection and PAMBAHAY), DENIMS (Wardrobe Denims, Tailored Denims, and Denim Collection), and RIBS (Bags).
A Different Philosophy
International Interbarangay is dedicated to finding a sense of beauty and timelessness amidst the fleeting nature of the current zeitgeist. The collection also distinguishes itself by marking the design house’s independence from the usual fashion seasons and calendars. Instead, the collection centers itself on the process of its creation, taking an unconventional turn away from retail expectations. Carl Jan Cruz creates each of its pieces in a limited quantity, with three editions per garment.
“Our approach used to be quite reactive, driven by the limitations of the Western fashion calendar and retail demands,” explains Cruz in a press statement. “We now prioritize nurturing our creative process, taking a proactive stance in determining collection-making timelines, depth of thought, and level of detail until we achieve satisfaction with our work. This shift represents a significant evolution in our philosophy and practice, emphasizing quality, creativity, and deliberate craftsmanship.”
Collaborative Storytelling
Cruz decided to approach the unveiling of his latest collection through a collaboration with other talented creatives and Silverlens gallery. The one-day multimedia presentation marked a significant step in fusing together fashion and art, showcasing wearable pieces that also embody a profound artistic vision. It is also a timely partnership between Silverlens and CARL JAN CRUZ, as the former celebrates its 20th anniversary while the latter commemorates its 10 years in the industry.
The presentation also featured photography by Renzo Navarro, a film by director Judd Figuerres, and live music by King Puentespina (who goes by the stage name “crwn”). Navarro’s photography captures the delicate tension between nostalgia and rebellion, depicting subjects in languid, sensual motion. Meanwhile, Figuerres’ film is one that blurs the line between the show and its formation, incorporating the crew’s movements through footage of fittings, intimations, and celebrations. Crwn’s live music introduced a sense of familiarity and community, using sounds from La Union’s beaches and markets.
Transcending Garments
On why he decided to pursue a collaborative, multimedia approach for his latest collection, Cruz shares: “Expressing the clothes beyond them being garments was very important. I think it was about the urge to create a space for us to reinforce to each other the value of our work. […] Given that our creative process draws inspiration from diverse media sources like imagery, music, fashion, food, art and culture, it felt natural to encapsulate our work into a cohesive multimedia format that could stand as a reference in its own right.”
“After 10 years of collection-making and research as a brand, we realize that we are deeply influenced by the individuals who wear our clothing, recognizing their innate ability to express their own visions through our clothing,” Cruz adds. As such, he views his brand as more than just a wardrobe of garments, but rather as “a way of living and being.”
International Interbarangay highlights the natural elegance of Filipiniana while simultaneously challenging conventional systems of creation and perfection. As it continues to evolve and inspire, the project is a testament to the potential of collective vision. This is especially true when it comes to shaping cultural discourse and fostering a more complex appreciation for heritage in a contemporary context.
Photos courtesy of Carl Jan Cruz.
