It involves melting and folding the metal over and over so that when it is cut, it reveals a wave pattern.
Genus will be showcasing an intricate timepiece at Barton 7, the Swiss showroom that feature independent brands during Geneva Watch Week.
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The brand will be releasing its GNS1.2 T out of blued Damascene Titanium. Genus describes it as a rare material and a first for watchmaking.
This metalworking technique dates back to 900 CE in the region of Damascus, Syria, and traditionally uses steel and iron. The ancient savoir-faire involves melting and folding the metal over and over so that when it is cut, it reveals a wave pattern.
It has historically been used for making swords and daggers as it is both resistant and flexible and blades in this material stay sharper longer.
Atypical design is in the DNA of the brand, In 2019, Genus introduced a new way of looking at and telling time with orbital hours and minutes. This garnered the Mechanical Exception Prize at 2019 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
The brand describes its masterpiece watch as being an example of “true artisanship, the domain of only the best metalsmiths.” Thus, the complex representation of time in flux that is the hallmark of Genus finds itself echoed by the metal’s moiré, undulating, changing appearance—where color nuances make each piece unique by the very nature of this craft.
The hues obtained through blueing-by-hand over an open flame are unique to each watch. Each part of the GNS1.2 TD’s casing is cut at an angle to achieve a different, unique appearance.
Here, the relationship between GENUS and the client again comes into play. The future owner is invited to attend the ‘damascene revelation’ by open flame at the GENUS workshop in Geneva and will be able to intervene directly in the coloring as well as decide on a particular surface finish: matte, satin or polished.
Founded by watchmaker Sébastien Billières and Catherine Henry, who serves Genus’ chief operating officer, the brand is driven by the concept of going the non-traditional route.
“Starting from a blank page with Genus has been a very stimulating challenge,” Henry says. “When you venture into unknown territory as we are today with Genus, you can’t expect the road to be an easy one, but we are proud of how far we’ve come so far. And we’re only at the beginning of our journey.”
