“Refined Tastes” featured a five-course dinner menu, each paired with a premium sake, including a guided tasting as well as sake experts who shared insights on the history, evolution, and nuances of the sake selection.
Senju at Edsa Shangri-La, Manila welcomed guests to an artful celebration of flavors for the discerning epicurean.
“Refined Tastes” showcased the creative culinary prowess of the Senju team. Chef Yusuke Hino, the hotel’s former executive Japanese chef, offered his talent and expertise during this exquisite five-course sake pairing dinner.
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The Origins Of Sake
But first, a little Sake 101. Over a millennium has passed since the origins of sake, coinciding with Japanese rice cultivation, according to Sake Sphere. Furthermore, See Japan shares that sake originated in 710-794 during the Nara period, while undergoing significant evolution throughout history. In addition, brewing of nihonshu or sake began as a government controlled monopoly. This played a relevant role in Shinto ceremonies and rituals. It is brewed using rice, water, koji mold (cooked rice and/or soya beans that have been inoculated with a fermentation culture), and yeast and has been a part of Japanese social and cultural life for hundreds of years.
Sake became a central fixture at court banquets and in the hundreds of years that followed, by 794-1185, during the Heian period. It became ingrained in all layers of society, after which, from 1603-1868 during the Edo period, advanced brewing techniques were developed. This led to the modern forms of sake, with breweries known as sakagura further refining their methods. It resulted in sake with a vast range of qualities and flavors, from sweet to dry, as well as rich to light.
The are several main varieties of sake.
Junmai, is a pure rice sake without added alcohol, with a full-bodied taste and slightly acidic flavor; Ginjo and Daigionjo, are rice milled to a minimum of 60% and 50% of its original size, respectively, recognized for complex and aromatic flavors; Honjozo, is a smooth and light sake with minimal amounts of the brewer’s alcohol to enhance the taste and scent; Nigori, is a cloudy sake including rice solids which were not fermented fully, resulting in a flavor that is sweet and creamy.
Today, sake brewing is an elegant art, marrying time-honored processes with modern innovations. Moreover, breweries across Japan are creating unique flavors from distinct brewing techniques.
Refined Tastes
SAKIZUKE
The sake pairing dinner at Senju in Edsa Shangri-La, Manila began with Sakizuke featuring Tatami Iwashi, dried baby sardines sheet; Umesuisho, shark cartilage with plum sauce; and Dashi Maki Tamago, dashi (Japanese stock) rolled omelette. For the first course, the trio of starters was paired with the fruity and refreshing Shochikubai Mio Clear Sparkling, originating from Nada. It is crafted using the traditional brewing style using only rice, water, and koji. A lively burst of apple and sweet fruit aromas wakes up the nose, following a refreshing and clean finish. Alcohol By Volume: 5% | Sake Meter Volume: -70 | Rice Polish: 60% | Rice Variety: Japanese Varietal | Origin: Nada
The Reisei Pasta was served next, an indulgent cold truffle flavored pasta with seared prawn, topped with caviar.
SASHIMI
For the second course, the Sashimi featured Cakuteru Maguro, a tuna cocktail paired with Dassai 39 Junmai Daiginjo. Originating from Yamaguchi, it is a vibrant sake full of fruit basket flavors. Additionally, it hints of pear, apple, blueberry, and honeydew. Alcohol By Volume: 16% | Sake Meter Volume: NA | Acidity: 1.3 | Rice Polish: 39% | Rice Variety: Yamadanishiki | Origin: Yamaguchi
AGEMONO
For course three, Agemono, featured the Katsu Sando, a Japanese wagyu sandwich. It was paired with Shichida Junmai Daiginjo, originating from Saga. Furthermore, the unfiltered, rich flavor of this highly rated sake is perfect for special occasions. Alcohol By Volume: 16% | Sake Meter Volume: +2 | Rice Polish: 45% | Rice Variety: Yamadanishiki | Origin: Saga
SHUSHOKU
The next course, Shushoku, included an Aburi (flame seared) 3 Kinds and Sukiyaki Don. The Aburi 3 Kinds featured lightly broiled flounder fin, salmon, and scallops topped with a signature sauce. They were paired with Jinyu Junmai Ginjo, produced by Kanzaki Brewery in Katori, Chiba Prefecture. Additionally, it is a well-balanced, moderate, full-bodied sake, which tastes best when chilled. Alcohol By Volume: 15% | Sake Meter Volume: +3 | Rice Polish: 60% | Rice Variety: Domestic Rice | Origin: Chiba
The Sukiyaki Don consisted of thinly sliced marinated wagyu over rice, paired with Chiyomusubi Tokubetsu Junmai. This sake has notes of pear and melon, rich and full bodied, with subtle earthiness. Furthermore, its well-balanced acidity and smooth finish make it ideal for both casual sipping and pairing. Alcohol By Volume: 16% | Sake Meter Value: +3 | Rice Polish: 55% | Rice Variety: Gohyakumangoku
MIZUGASHI
Finally, the Mizugashi featured a Matcha Ice Cream with peach sake sauce, jelly, and toasted flaxseed biscuit. Amusing enough, the lovely dessert mimicked a real peach and was paired with Gekkeikan Horodoke Peach Sake Liqueur. With its low alcohol, it is easy to drink. In addition, the sake is from Kyoto, refreshingly fruity with hints of sweetness from fresh peach juice from Yamaguchi Prefecture. Alcohol By Volume: 3% | Origin: Yamaguchi
Compelling Prelude
In conclusion, it was an evening of masterfully crafted authentic Japanese cuisine paired with premium sake by Philippine Wine Merchants. Clearly, “Refined Tastes” by Senju at Edsa Shangri-La, Manila, shed light on the rich heritage and cultural depth of Japanese gastronomy. Indeed, it was a fitting celebration during World Sake Day.
Without a doubt, this sake pairing dinner served as a compelling prelude. Did somebody say an upcoming series of exciting Senju collaborations with Chef Hino is in the works?
Photos by the author.