Find out how Chito Vijandre conceptualized and created his collection for the recently concluded Bench Fashion Week.
Fashion and time are congruent. There is a defining style every decade—fashion mirrors the present zeitgeist. Today’s designers always reference styles and trends from the past. Furthermore, referencing previous fashion eras brings about a rush of nostalgia everyone enjoys. For Chito Vijandre: sweet nostalgia is what he brought this Bench Fashion Week.
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In his recent collection for Bench Fashion Week, Chito Vijandre showcased his artistry with beautiful and dynamic pieces. In an exclusive interview with Lifestyle Asia, the designer shared background information about how the show and the collection came together.
An Ode To The Past
Chito went back in time for his inspiration. He started banking on what he saw as a child in the ‘60s for the design codes and elements he incorporated into his collection. “ As a child, I saw my sisters in mini dresses with geometric prints. It was the first time that clothes were being designed for the young—the Youthquake rebellion against the established old guard of Paris couture,” he shared.
The quirkiness and esoteric era of the ’60s is also juxtaposed with the all-serious Space Race. This was the time in history when the US and Russia were trying to get to outer space first. Moreover, this brief module in history inspired Chito to create pieces that are reflective of the past and relatable to the present.
“It mirrors what we are going through now after the pandemic and lots of crises in the world from economic upheavals and climate change to world wars. The period calls for innovative ideas and creative solutions to the challenges we face,” he said.
The influence of the ‘60s was evident with his masterful usage of chain mail, giant paillettes, and gilded metal discs. When these elements are connected it likens to a samurai armor with angular sleeves and another version that resembles European Medieval armor and Joan of Arc.
Mixing It Up
Aside from the ‘60s, elements from the famed ‘70s were also used in the collection. “In the 70s there was women’s lib, burn the bra, and the hippie culture. There was also a rebellion against materialism and pop’s superficial sheen by looking toward the spiritualism of the East and its ancient cultures,” he shares.
The contrast between the heavily futuristic ‘60s and the ultimately free ‘70s was well-executed in his pieces throughout the collection. Furthermore, to encapsulate the unique personality of the era—he mixed different fabrics like brocades from Tibet and India with silk chiffon and silk velvet.
“The decade culminates in the hedonism and decadence of Studio 54 which I channeled in party dresses that mix folk/peasant looks with ruched tops in silk organza that recall Renaissance court wear,” he adds.
His collection for Bench FW did not disappoint. His creativity and understanding of his references shone as he mixed two distinct eras in fashion. Moreover, his utilization of metal relaxed on soft fabrics enabled each element to shine but still beautifully blend and juxtapose each other.
New Era
In order to create this collection, Chito had to face new challenges. “I never did chain mail before, linking discs and paillettes which requires a lot of patience and precision so it falls properly,” he shared. His decision to use chain mail and metallic pieces for the first time in a collection is a powerful risk. Especially because he presented his collection in arguably one of the biggest fashion events in the Philippines.
Aside from using new fabric, he also took on the challenge of playing with different silhouettes. Furthermore, this collection is a huge take-off from his last collection in Ternocon. From structured and corseted pieces, he now ventures to more free and flowy silhouettes—showing the versatility of his design intelligence.
“My signature mix of cultures and eras is still evident together with my fondness for mixing print on print, vivid colors, and different textures. It’s a fun collection, which I enjoyed doing. They’re happy clothes.”
Warm Reception
As his last model graced the stage, the audience was dancing and applauding at the same time. His show was a wonderful example of having fun—which translates to the whole presentation and collection. “It’s the best reward to see people enjoying it and dancing in their seats,” he exclaimed.
All photos courtesy of Bench.
