Creative director Jeremy Scott advocates joy in the Moschino Womenswear S/S 2023 collection for Milan Fashion Week.
Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott responds to the gloom and the issues we’re facing today, with a collection motivated by mood buoyancy: “We must be cognizant of what’s happening around us, yet we must also hold space for joy. The collection is a prism of optimism.”
This symbolic uplift starts with daytime looks to stay afloat. Boxy jackets, sporty dresses and functional skirts feature faux-blow up hearts, a reimagining of the famed Moschino icon. A direct twist on the word “inflation” then starts to enter the relief, with pool toys, life rafts and life preservers taking shape across suiting, refined daywear, graphic-impact eveningwear and accessories, alike.
A shoulder-strap cocktail dress is rendered in bright yellow, replete with a flotation device around the waist and safety cords at the bust and hem. A noir jacket and trouser suit boasts inflatable lapels and pocket covers on the former, complete with oral valves for aerating the accents. As the lineup progresses, a touch more formality drifts to the top: A pink blazer and skirt set with floaties at the cuffs, a blow up-collar classic moto jacket paired with a midi-skirt, and a patterned column dress complemented by a pool raft stole are all part of the interplay.
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The levity gets turned up a notch with the collection’s evening dresses and gowns. On one languid and draped silhouette, an inflatable swan bolero–as if out of an Art Deco Erté artwork–adds lighthearted drama. On a one-shouldered ruffled and printed dress, a pool ring graces the waist. And, adding humor to a petal pink Grecian frock, a pair of inflatable dolphins flanks the arms.
In Moschino’s long-standing manner, each piece in Spring holds some wink or trick of the eye, and is layered with double entendre and wit. The inflatables are genuine or faux, signaling questions between illusion or reality (another conceptual adjunct to the complexity of our era). Ultimately, though, it’s about offsetting the negativity–of breaking through the surface into a ray of sunshine, even when the rest of the water is shadowed in gray. That’s where joy may be found.
STYLIST: Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele
MAKE-UP BY: Kabuki with product provided by Mulac Cosmetics
HAIR: Sam McKnight with ghd Italia official hair partner
HEADPIECES: Stephen Jones
NAILS: OPI in cooperation with Massimo Albini nail artist from Sifarma
MUSIC: Michel Gaubert
PRODUCTION: Random Production
CASTING: DM Casting
Thanks to Palazzo Del Ghiaccio.
Moschino has arrived in the Philippines through the pop-up store which opened at the Greenbelt 5 Fashion Walk yesterday, September 28.
Banner photo by Marco Ovando.
