At Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez, a new chef de cuisine continues the story of Spain’s northern coast in the heart of Manila.
There is always something special when it comes to a home meal. It is a warm and welcoming experience as someone opens part of themselves to another person. Now, imagine how one of the country’s most celebrated chefs, known for masterfully balancing the elevated and the playful, would approach hometown cuisine. Chef Chele Gonzalez’s journey from the northern Spanish coast of Cantabria to the Philippines is a story of how flavors travel. When Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez opened at The Westin Manila last March 2024, it represented that deeply personal act of translation. He brought a piece of his homeland to his second home.
“Spanish cuisine continues to evolve over time, and so do tradition and techniques,” Chef Chele, the restaurant’s Creative Culinary Director, explained at the time. “Cantabria presents a unique side of Spanish cuisine and raises the bar by showcasing a blend of tradition and trends through a flavorful journey. We take on a creative and sophisticated approach to seafood, and showcase a unique side of Spanish cuisine unknown to most, together with innovative tapas, meats, and other Spanish favorites.”
A year into this culinary journey, the restaurant welcomes fresh currents with the arrival of Chef Álvaro Romero-abreu Raya as chef de cuisine. The Cádiz native trained in Michelin-starred kitchens, including the Research and Development team at Mugaritz, considered one of the world’s best by leading dining publications.
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Recently, Lifestyle Asia was invited to a dinner with both Chef Chele and Chef Álvaro to experience Cantabria, right in the heart of Manila.
Fresh Seafood and Spanish Classics
The meal started, befittingly, with the sea, capturing that unique coastal essence of Cantabrian cuisine. We were served ostra manzana y lima-limón (oyster paired with green apple and lime-lemon granita). This was followed by tartar y salmon con vieras con gazpachuelo de jalapeños y coco (salmon tartar crowned with torched scallops, accompanied by a sour jalapeño emulsion and coconut cream). These bites of the ocean with playful accompaniments of flavors of the land ensure the taste isn’t overwhelming, just enough to set the tone for the experience.
Tapas are a staple of Spanish cuisine that diners often look for, and rest assured, they can be found on the menu. The croquetas de jamón iberico and gambas al ajillo are classics that simply need quality preparation for the recipes and ingredients to shine as they do. The tortilla española crujiente, meanwhile, showcases the kitchen’s playful side with the traditional Spanish tortilla reimagined as panipuri.
The guiso de maganos en su tinta con patatas en texturas (baby squid ink stew with potato textures and snow peas) showcases Chef Chele’s commitment to dishes that speak to both soul and sophistication, especially in the restaurant that bears both his hometown and his name.
For the main event, Chef Chele and Chef Álvaro prepared two dishes that captured the sophisticated approach to seafood and elevated Spanish favorites that the restaurant promises. The rodaballo a la parilla (grilled turbot) is a showcase of fine simplicity in cooking. Chef Chele directed us to how easily the bone falls off the fish, an indicator of the quality of the fish and of the preparation. This was followed by a diner-favorite: paella de wagyu y tuétano (bone marrow and Wagyu steak paella), a dish of pure indulgence.
The dessert course brought the meal full circle. It featured sobao pasiego, Cantabria’s traditional delicacy cake served with berries coulis and vanilla ice cream. This is a direct taste of Chef Chele’s hometown and a good representation of the chef’s approach to dining. It is a simple sponge cake that gains complexity through perfect execution and thoughtful accompaniments. The soufflé de chocolate, calabaza y pistachio offers a more elaborate conclusion, the deliciously warm chocolate contrasting subtle sweetness.
A Port of Call and Cuisine at Cantabria
As the evening concluded, it was clear how effectively the chefs navigate the waters between authenticity and innovation, between embracing playful detours along the journey while still being anchored by origins.
“We have a lot of experiences to offer in different ways,” Chef Álvaro says, referring to the a la carte and set menu options of the restaurant. “There’s something for everyone. We’ve created a menu that can make people feel like they’re staying in Spain without staying in Spain. I feel that, too. I feel like I’m at home.”
Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez becomes something like a port of call where two coastal cultures meet. The Atlantic finds expression in Pacific waters. While the shores of Cantabria may be an ocean away, here the distance dissolves with every bite.
Cantabria by Chef Chele Gonzalez is located on the Roof Level of The Westin Manila, San Miguel Avenue cor. Lourdes Drive, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City. For more information and bookings, you may visit https://www.cantabriamanila.com/.
Photos courtesy of The Westin Manila
