A look into the history of Rita Moreno’s groundbreaking Oscar win for Best Supporting Actress in “West Side Story“—and the fascinating story behind how she came to wear a gown by the legendary Filipino designer Pitoy Moreno.
At the 2018 Academy Awards, which honored the best achievements in film from 2017, Rita Moreno took the stage to announce the winner of Best Foreign Language Film. As her name was called, she shimmied down the stage at the Dolby Theatre, channeling her iconic character Anita from West Side Story (1961). Fans, movie lovers, and fashion aficionados were treated to a special surprise—Rita was wearing something familiar: the Pitoy Moreno dress she had donned almost 60 years ago when she accepted the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress.
That evening, the brilliant Chilean film A Fantastic Woman won the category (deservedly so), but what followed was a flurry of articles and think pieces celebrating Moreno’s dress and its historical significance. As the Oscars draw near once again, we revisit this iconic dress—not just for its place in fashion and film history, but for its role in showcasing Filipino design on the world stage.
READ ALSO: Film History: Recognizing Women At the Oscars
The Role She Was Born to Play
The first film adaptation of West Side Story was a significant milestone in Hollywood. Not only was it a massive box office and critical triumph, but it also signaled a shift in the musical genre. What was once a collection of candy-colored MGM extravaganzas—complete with dream sequences and artificial sets—evolved into a more naturalistic art form, emphasizing location shooting and gritty subject matter. Think Rebel Without a Cause set to music rather than the bubblegum Technicolor of Singin’ in the Rain.
Rita Moreno had been around during those earlier days, appearing in a small but crucial role in the film version of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s The King and I in 1956. While she gained recognition for her portrayal of Tuptim, she was mostly relegated to side characters—nameless “Others,” native women with some form of an accent. West Side Story was a turning point for her, as it was the first film in which she was able to portray someone of her own ethnicity—a Puerto Rican. And what a gift of a role it was!
Anita, in this modern-day adaptation of Romeo and Juliet, is a fully realized character, one with agency, desires, and nuance, brought to life by the brilliant music of Leonard Bernstein and Stephen Sondheim. With a background in musical theater, this was the role Moreno had been waiting for—the one that would truly showcase her talents.
Contemporary reviewers at the time took note of Moreno’s remarkable performance, often citing her as one of the best parts of the film adaptation. The New York Times’ resident film critic (and notoriously hard-to-please reviewer) Bosley Crowther called Moreno “a spitfire,” while Variety’s Whitney Williams wrote that, as Anita, she “presents a fiery characterization and also scores hugely.” She earned the kind of reviews that ultimately led to her Oscar nomination for Best Supporting Actress.
READ ALSO: 10 Lush Movie Musicals in Glorious Technicolor to Chase Away The Rainy Day Blues
Rita Moreno in the Philippines
The New York Times reports that when Rita Moreno heard about her Oscar nomination, she was in the Philippines filming B-movie Cry of Battle, a World War II film in which she played an English-speaking leader of a group of Filipino guerillas. She was happy about the nomination but was well aware of the Academy’s reputation for a lack of representation among its winners. At that point, only two women of color had won in her category: Hattie McDaniel for Gone with the Wind(1939) and Miyoshi Umeki for Sayonara (1956). In the Lead Actress category, there still hadn’t been a woman of color winner until Halle Berry’s historic victory for Monster’s Ball in 2001. Moreno celebrated but didn’t expect to win.
7,300 miles away from Hollywood, she carried on, focusing on her work and assuming the eventual winner would be Judy Garland for her performance in the Nazi trial drama Judgment at Nuremberg. However, when she heard that she had won the Golden Globe for Supporting Actress, she suddenly had a change of heart. It was time to fly back home and get ready for the Academy Awards—but she wouldn’t come unprepared in case of a victory. The question was, where would she get an Oscar dress?
The Fashion Czar of Asia
Enter: Pitoy Moreno (no relation). Known as the Fashion Czar of Asia, Pitoy Moreno was one of the leading figures in the local fashion industry. He learned to sew as a young boy before the Second World War and honed his talents with the encouragement of his mother, for whom he designed dresses. With her support, he mastered the art of design, sewing, and draping.
From humble beginnings in a small shop in Tondo, Pitoy’s reputation grew over the years, with international fashion editors featuring his work in publications like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. He was also the first Filipino designer to introduce the world to indigenous fabrics such as jusi, piña, and lepanto. His high-end clientele included First Lady of the Philippines Imelda Marcos, Princess Margaret of the United Kingdom, and Queen Sirikit of Thailand.
However, the story of how the two Morenos met remains unclear. Some sources claim that Pitoy gifted the dress to Rita. However, in a 2018 interview with Manila Bulletin, Moreno stated that she actually sought out Pitoy after many people recommended him. She then admitted, however, that the truth is she doesn’t quite remember—blaming her age for the lapse in memory. But one thing is certain: the two crossed paths at the perfect moment, creating a remarkable and iconic Oscar moment that has stood the test of time.
READ ALSO: An Abundance of Accolades: These Three Films Are Tied For Winning the Most Oscars
I Leave You With That
Then came the evening of April 9, 1962, when the 34th Academy Awards were presented at the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium. West Side Story had become a cultural phenomenon and was the frontrunner for Best Picture. As expected, it swept the ceremony, winning 10 of its 11 Oscar nominations.
Rita Moreno, initially hesitant to attend, was given three days off from filming Cry of Battle to make it to the ceremony. To her surprise, she won. Reports say that the Puerto Rican community in New York erupted in celebration, their cheers echoing across town. It was a moment for Rita, for Latin American representation, and for the power of perseverance—proof that she had endured in an industry that so often worked against her because of her race. Frazzled and overwhelmed, she kept her acceptance speech brief. Holding the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress, she simply said: “I can’t believe it! Good Lord! I leave you with that.”
It was also a moment for Pitoy Moreno and Philippine design. The voluminous black-and-gold printed skirt, paired with a sleek black sleeveless halter top, was both modern and elegant. The ensemble was made from Japanese obi fabric, traditionally used for kimonos. Its streamlined look and stunning silhouette have made it one of the most memorable garments to grace the Oscar stage. In fact, many consider Moreno’s win a true fashion moment, frequently mentioned alongside Edith Head’s powder blue gown for Grace Kelly or Givenchy’s numerous creations for Audrey Hepburn.
Fast-forward 56 years, and Rita Moreno once again wore the dress on the Oscar stage. She says she recycled the gown not only because she loves it—having kept it in her closet for decades—but also as a statement, as she is a staunch supporter of sustainable fashion. The dress was reworked, with Moreno altering the original halter top into a strapless design.
Truly, Moreno marches to the beat of her own drum. She has had a remarkable career spanning over half a century, and is one of the few people in history to achieve the coveted EGOT status, having won an Emmy, Grammy, Oscar, and Tony.
She remains relevant today, appearing in films and television projects that continue to entertain and captivate audiences worldwide. The performer also lives on through celluloid, in the great films she has appeared in over the last five decades. Rita Moreno is a class act, and we’re certainly proud that two of her most dazzling moments involve one of our brilliant Filipino countrymen.
Banner courtesy of The New York Times
