In Elbert Cuenca’s new restaurant, ordering should never warrant overthinking.
Don’t ask Elbert Cuenca what to order at Harry’s Bistro. He says ordering from a menu shouldn’t be that way. Why ask somebody else what you should eat? It’s all about what you’re feeling at that very moment. You can’t help but take his word for it; he’s the name behind some of the country’s most celebrated restaurants, including Elbert’s Steak Room in Makati, which remains a popular destination (albeit a “if ya know, ya know” kind of spot) for discerning gastronomes for almost 20 years. These decades in the industry have given him a deep understanding of how and why Filipinos, and people in general, dine.
So you ask yourself the important questions. What are you in the mood for? What are you craving? Sweet, savory, or both? Big plate or small plate? Solo or for sharing? We go back to the menu.
“Choose what calls out to you,” Elbert advises.
“I want to try the omelette,” I reply, the words “Tortilla de Patatas & Chorizo” calling out to me on the menu.
“Go for it,” he says.
True enough, the experience leaves me with no regrets.
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What To Order At Harry’s Bistro? You Decide.
The Tortilla de Patatas is one of the many things Lifestyle Asia gets to try while dining with Elbert at Harry’s Bistro on a summer afternoon. The menu is filled with countless options, all of them appealing to members of our team for different reasons. Up first, the appetizers and small plates: that omelette, of course, and also Caesar salad, croquetas stuffed with lamb, delicate bites of steak tartare, and melt-in-your-mouth pork ears.
Naturally, I slice into the omelette first, and as I take a bite of the fluffy egg topped with a generous slice of chorizo, an explosion of flavors soon follows: egg, potatoes, and the saltiness of the chorizo all having a party on my palate while playing with contrasting textures that make the bite more interesting. I tell Elbert that this is my kind of comfort food.
“You know,” Elbert begins, “Different food brings comfort to different people. If someone comes up to me and says our food provides them comfort, that’s something I really like to hear.”
We continue to eat. The salad is well-balanced; the dressing isn’t overbearing, with just the right amount covering crisp vegetables. The croquettes have a zing of flavor from the lamb stuffing, and Elbert says we’re lucky we came on a day when they’re stuffed with the premium meat, because it changes almost every day depending on what’s available. They try to minimize waste and use whatever ingredients they have instead of throwing things away.
The bites of steak tartare taste fresh and bright. I expect nothing less, since Elbert owns a steakhouse and prides himself on the quality of his meat selection. Then there are the pork ears: velvety, sinful perfection that would have anybody craving a workout if they eat too many. All of this is only the beginning of a wonderful meal at the bistro concept.
The Story Behind Harry’s Bistro
You may be wondering about the eclecticness of Harry’s Bistro’s menu. Why on earth were we having Spanish tapas in a “bistro”? The term normally refers to a laid-back eatery known for home-style French cuisine. Well, Elbert has an answer. Harry’s Bistro now stands on the former site of Metronome in Bolaños Street, the celebrated fine-dining French restaurant helmed by Miko Calo, in which Elbert was a partner. When the restaurant sadly closed, the space became available, and Elbert didn’t have the heart to let it go. Instead, he decided to come up with an entirely new concept.
“Normally, the concept comes first, then the place presents itself,” he explains. “But here, we already had a space that needed to be reused.”
Since Metronome was famously serving up French cuisine, Elbert’s first instinct was to keep it that way. But instead of fine dining, he wanted something more casual: a bistro serving classics like coq au vin and beef bourguignon. He then worked closely with his brother, Chef Adrian Cuenca—who has collaborated with him on countless concepts over the years—to develop a menu.
They were never fully satisfied with what they initially came up with for this new restaurant. The idea then shifted: why try to create something entirely new when they had decades of experience across different cuisines they already perfected? So, they decided to bring back some of the most popular dishes from former concepts, starting with standouts from Elbert’s Collective, a neighborhood favorite in Salcedo Village that unfortunately closed during the pandemic.
The word “bistro” is no longer used to define a cuisine, but instead, a type of dining philosophy. It’s a term many people recognize and immediately understand: straight-up, no-frills, delicious food that doesn’t need explaining. To give it a bit of personality, they christened the place “Harry’s Bistro,” after Elbert and his wife Liza Ilarde’s beloved Parson Russell Terrier, who passed away in 2024.
To strengthen the menu of delicious dishes, Elbert sought the help of former collaborators and food industry stalwarts to bring something new to the table. He turned to award-winning mixologist Arcadius Rybak to create the bar menu; and Miguel Vecin, a chef-restaurateur with expertise in Spanish cuisine, to craft the small plates and tapas. It all came together in a unique “bistro” concept that makes perfect sense the moment you take a bite.
It’s also worth noting that the bistro offers something called “Harry’s Hour,” their own take on happy hour, where, for a fixed price, diners can enjoy free-flowing drinks and food—but there’s a twist.
“You need to drink more to eat more,” Elbert says with a laugh, because every drink comes with a small plate of tapas or pintxos. Order a cocktail, and you can choose a small plate to pair it with, including Chorizo & Chips, Salami Tartare, Smoked Salmon Pintxo, Croquettes, and more.
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Decadent At Heart
The space in which Harry’s Bistro sits is modern yet touched with earthy tones and rustic details that give it a warm, welcoming, casual atmosphere. It’s a far cry from the ultra-polished and sleek fine dining restaurant that once stood there, but it still holds onto its predecessor’s quiet elegance. Playful fixtures, eye-catching accents, and thoughtfully chosen tableware and furniture bring the room together.
We sit in the private room, tucked away from the main dining space. It seats 14 comfortably, is beautifully lit with soft mood lighting, and feels cozy yet spacious; in other words, it’s the ideal setting for a good meal among friends both old and new.
After our small plates and a bottle (or two) of rosé, our appetites are thoroughly whetted, and it’s time for the mains. First up is the Rack of Lamb, a flavorful and tender herb-crusted cut served with a generous portion of ratatouille. Our other protein came in the form of Chicken Kiev: a buttery, breaded fillet stuffed with herb butter that recalls a mother’s special recipe, served with what’s possibly the smoothest, most decadent pile of mashed potatoes I’ve had in a while.
Finally, to cut through the heaviness of the meat, we order a fluffy plate of pasta, namely the Spaghetti Carbonara. It’s cooked with all the good stuff: guanciale, pecorino romano, organic egg yolks, and black pepper. Decadent and comforting, it’s bistro food at its best.
We’re stuffed to the brim, but Elbert insists on dessert. We don’t argue. The sweet treats that follow are more than worth it, leaving our stomachs satisfied and our faces glowing with smiles. The Chocolate Mousse, reminiscent of the Pinoy favorite from Red Ribbon, was moist and rich—a personal standout from the meal. The panna cotta, creamy and bright, came with a zingy strawberry sauce.
The conversation flows, steady and pleasant until it reaches its natural end. Even as we prepare to leave the restaurant, full and content, we’re already making plans to return. There’s too much on the menu not to, and we’ll be sure to keep Elbert’s advice in mind. He’s right: everything at Harry’s Bistro is worth a try, depending on the day. It’s just proof that when you follow your heart and listen to your stomach, you’ll never lose your way to great food.
Harry Bistro is located at 160 Bolanos St. Legazpi Village, Makati 1229
Photos courtesy of Elbert Cuenca
