Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS23 Recap: English Flair, 90s Style, and the Return of Big Brands - Lookbook

Houses were inspired by the past, the now, and standing for their beliefs.

Milan Men’s Fashion Week just wrapped up, and in its four days, it hosted 25 fashion shows and 66 showrooms, exhibits, and more. We saw many returns from big brands like Gucci, Versace, and Moschino. 

At the same time, new labels and some new designers were showcased, such as Joeone, Loverboy, Family First, Jeone, and Simone Cracker. 

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For Spring/Summer 2022, color and print are expected, but each house’s execution took caters to pretty much any person’s style.

Bringing it back

With the resurgence of nineties fashion, JW Anderson took inspiration from the 1991 play The Pitchfork Disney by Philip Ridley. Interestingly, the brand’s designer and founder Jonathan Anderson performed a snippet from the play in his Juilliard audition nearly a decade ago when he tried to be an actor before a designer. 

Beyond the baggy, ripped, low-waisted jeans and tri-colored sweater sleeves, Anderson conveyed the nineties by equipping models with BMX handlebars, broken skate decks, and shattered CDs attached to their bodies. 

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A post shared by JW ANDERSON (@jw_anderson)

Also inspired by the past, Erdem nods to 1940s fashion with posh English country flair through hand-knitted sweaters, shoes, and silk dressing gowns. Meanwhile, Zegna showcased a set for the contemporary man. 

In a distinct color palette of muted tones (despite the trickle of bright yellow looks that appeared momentarily), we saw relaxed tailoring that eliminated collars and buttons from supposed dress jackets. 

Staying true

For eccentric sets, Versace, Alnx, and VTMNTS stayed true to their identities. Versace kept its palette striking with neons and its signature medusa print, while Alyx married streetwear with high fashion leatherwear, just as they are known for. 

In their digital presentation, VTMNTS, another streetwear-meets luxury hype brand, cropped, well, everything. Shortened bomber jackets, shoulder-padded jackets, and completely cut-off suit jacket sleeves.

After all, Guram Gvasalia, VTSMTS’ chief executive and founder, told Vogue, “The main message of the collection is gender equality. It’s about knowing who you are, standing for your beliefs. Crop out the bullshit.”

Banner photo from @Zegnaofficial.

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